Last week in Ranchi

My time in Ranchi is so quickly coming to an end. But somehow, I think this might be a place that I will also ‘go and come’. If not returning before I leave India in May, I can imagine that I’ll find a way to see the progress on the Training Center and all the other changes in a few years. I have such mixed feelings about leaving. Nijhar and Neeraj have taught me so much, been so generous, welcoming and accommodating, and it has been very comfortable and fun to be with them. There are many things we didn’t get a chance to do, like visiting some of the beautiful waterfalls nearby, spending more time doing music together, and even doing some basic Indian driving (teaching Nijhar). I would have liked to be more helpful with their day-to-day activities like cooking and watching the kids, but for various reasons, this was rather limited. I did do some, however, and they will now return to their ‘normal’ routines with teaching and school for the kids. I also have started to feel a pull to accomplish my work for Luther Seminary in establishing partnerships with various institutions here in India…and of course begin work again on my final Master’s project. It is time to move on to the next thing, but I will miss many things here and I face yet another transition/adjustment period again.

This past week included three main things in addition to the periodic visits with neighbors and family: A beach vacation in Puri, some basic Western notation music classes, and a burial. The schedule has been anything but ordinary, and this was supposed to be a very unscheduled week. I got to meet the students that Nijhar and Neeraj teach, which was a great time of questions and answers. I also have begun a routine of walking to the internet café and back for a little exercise as well as to free the Ekkas to do their own thing without watching out for me all the time.

So, first, about our trip to Puri. We took an overnight train (the first time for the kids) and spent two days in this touristy town on the east coast of India. It was super relaxing and tons of fun for us all to enjoy sunshine, swimming and playing in the ocean, building sandcastles, and exploring the town. The lifeguards at the beach (who sold tents and basically kept the beach clean and safe for everyone) were my favorite thing. They were so nice and I liked their pointy white hats! (See photo) In general, I don’t like the tourist scene, but it was nice to not be the only white (pink) face around and to have my Indian friends also be tourists with me! Puri is the home of the famous Jagannath Temple, which does not allow non-Hindus to enter (in fact, they wouldn’t even allow Indira Gandhi in because although she is Hindu, she is married to a Muslim), so we just looked around outside of it a little bit one evening. Otherwise, it was eating and enjoying the beach for us!

When we got back from Puri and settled in, I was asked to lead two music sessions with some church members here in Ranchi. There are some people who know Sol-Fa and quite a few who lead by their ear, but only one or two people in the entire area who can read Western notation. They are sad to have lost much of the ability to sing hymns in four parts, and generally wanted to learn this new skill. I am in no ways an expert, but I could give them some basics and let them practice on their own. Nijhar and Neeraj would really like to have a trained church musician come and teach regular classes here, and I am hoping that I can help in finding a leader to do that for an international internship year or even long-term. It would be even more ideal if the musician could help maintain the tribal music of the area – preserving it and continuing its development.

And then, the burial. Nijhar’s uncle has had failing health for quite some time and we had visited him even before Christmas in case he didn’t make it through the holidays while we were away. The Rev. Dr. C.A.B. Tirkey lived just down the road here and has been one of the main tribal Christian leaders in India. It was an honor for me to attend his burial and continue to learn about him, even if I didn’t understand the long sermon or eulogy. I use the term ‘burial’ because the traditions are not like Western funerals in that the service happens in the graveyard rather than the church and the preparation of the body and actual putting the coffin in the ground is done by the family and friends as a part of the service.

Here’s what I encountered: Visitation was at the family’s home beginning right away after the announcement (which happened by phone calls and ringing a bell in the neighborhood). The immediate family had made sure that he was bathed, dressed up, and presentable. He had beautiful white linens over him, other cloths, music, candles, and flowers arranged around his body. People took lots of pictures, which was different for me to see, but will be helpful for the many people who couldn’t make it that very day for the closure. Often, people will sing around the deceased person’s body in an all night vigil, but in this case, everything was shortened to a few hours and the service began at 3:00 in the afternoon. A few words were spoken in the house by Rev. Nijhar before he was put into the casket, and they used a particular kind of cloth that had not been folded as cushion. We then all processed to the graveyard just a short distance away, singing hymns along the way. After the main part of the service there, all the people in attendance threw some dirt into the grave and after the official grave diggers completed the burial, people put tons of bright flowers, candles, and incense on the grave. Finally, there was a condolence prayer meeting (which will happen 3 nights in a row) in the family’s home. One last thing I should mention is that in this community (among Lutherans and Anglicans at least) they hold the Easter vigil service in the graveyard. What a brilliant idea! The message of resurrection couldn’t be proclaimed in a better setting!

I don’t know that I will go into my own thoughts and reflections on this experience right now because I am not sure I can articulate it. I just soaked in lots of information and need time to process it yet. At this time, I am more focused on my schedule and next step(s) in my journey.

I leave Ranchi on Friday night on an overnight train to Calcutta. Nijhar is going with me and we will spend a day exploring the city with some of her friends/relatives. On Sunday, I’ll get on another train which will return me to Hyderabad by Monday morning. There, I will be meeting with leaders at a school which emphasizes inter-religious interaction and awareness. It’s called the Henry Martyn Institute and Luther Seminary has had a relationship with this school (through Luther’s Islamic Studies program) for a number of years. I hope to renew the partnership and create more opportunities for exchange between the institutions while I stay there. One of the professors there finished his studies at Luther Seminary last year, so he will also be my guide as I learn about the school and also more about Hyderabad.

Friends at home might find it interesting that during the recent ‘cold snap’ in Northern India, some schools began and hour or two late! I never expected to hear of such a thing in India. Next thing you know, they will have days off because of snow! (No… global warming will probably change it the other way.) My new Hindi word from Puna is ‘mera!’= mine! Fitting for a two year old, but again, it’s not maybe the most useful word in my minimal vocabulary. I was talking with one of the neighbor/relative girls here a couple days ago, sharing my awe at the short amount of time I have known her, and yet I have already experienced a wedding, funeral, and some Christmas and New Years’ celebrations. I have not even done all that with some of my close friends!

Life here continues to be one adventure after another!
Sara