Institution hopping in India
Sorry for the delay in this blog entry. I spent over 2 hours on it on Friday, but the power went out just as I was finishing and I was stupid and didn’t SAVE! So, this is my second attempt at summarizing another very full week!
On Friday, Jan. 12, I spent my last day with the Ekkas. One important thing I had not yet done was to visit Maani and Urbas’s schools. They were both very proud to show off their rooms, teachers, and friends to me ,and it was fun for me to see the types of learning environments they both have (great places, but BIG class sizes!) I have been surprised to watch young kids (age 5 even) prepare for entrance interviews for private schools here in Ranchi. The kids are asked to say their parents’ names and a bunch of other details to test their knowledge of English and readiness for school. I knew that there is a lot of competition in Indian schools, but I never realized that in some cases, it all starts even BEFORE entry to a kindergarten class!
The kids were asleep when Nijhar and I left to catch the train that night, but there were many new friends to send us off, insisting that I keep up the ‘go and come’ theme in my travels. It wasn’t so difficult to consider a return visit to Ranchi, not only because I became so comfortable here, but also because my travel schedule was altered in a big way just at the end of my time in Ranchi. I had planned to go to New Zealand for about a month (February), but found out that flying there at this time would cost just as much or even more than from the U.S. I simply cannot afford to take such a trip right now, so I have found myself with a whole month open in my India schedule! What to do??? Well, there are lots of options, but I’m getting ahead of myself…
Nijhar and I left a very quiet evening in Ranchi only to arrive in a chaotic and loud morning in Kolkata! Her cousin found us in the biggest train station in India (I think) on the final platform (#21 - with two more platforms coming soon). He led us fearlessly and quickly without even looking back (thankfully he was wearing a bright red hat) through the corridors and masses of people and items for sale in the 4-5 big red brick buildings that make up Howrah station. It is really quite a place as it sits on the river facing the city with its big neon signs in 3 different languages flashing. Evidently, West Bengalis tend to be a bit louder or outspoken than other Indians and also they like to go out on the town more than others. I’m not sure if it is really true, but it certainly seemed to add to the craziness I felt in my first impressions of the city.
Since I was in Kolkata for less than 24 hours and only about 3 hours actually out and about in the city, I can only give a fe
w observations. I saw both very wide and very narrow streets, some covered in cobblestone. In addition to the usual bike and auto rickshaws, there were big yellow taxis, and this might be the only city in India which still has people-drawn rickshaws (but I didn’t happen to see them). It is a terribly difficult and unsafe life for the pullers, so most cities are banning them. We visited the Queen Victoria Memorial (see photo) and St. Paul’s Church, but most of Kolkata we saw by city bus or ferry. There were colorful and busy markets as well as big gardens and parks where people were enjoying themselves with games and relaxation. As if the city isn’t busy enough already, we happened to be there just as the Makar Sankranti Mela was getting ready to begin and there were many Hindu pilgrims arriving for this celebration.
I didn’t realize until I arrived in Hyderabad 2 days later that the same Hindu celebration in Kolkata was being celebrated in a very different way here. It is called Pongal in the stat
e of Tamil Nadu, to the southeast of here, and it is one of the festivals I remember learning about at UTC. I also learned at UTC that the way Hindu festivals are recognized varies greatly from place to place (and even family to family). This holiday was a good example of this for me. While basically it is a harvest festival, marking the end of the winter season for many, it lasts 3-4 days and these are just a few of the ways it is recognized: flying kites, burning old mats or other things that are becoming old, cockfighting, washing and decorating cows and parading them in the streets, or causing a pot of milk to boil over. We had a conversation in my Hinduism class at UTC about whether the translation of ‘pongal’ was ‘boiling’, ‘It is boiling.’ or ‘Is it boiling?’, and I was told now that it’s proper translation is ‘overflowing.’ In any case, I will continue to say that my brain is ‘pongal’ whenever I get overwhelmed by such complicated cultural lessons!
In Hyderabad, I settled into the Henry Martyn Institute and put on my Luther Seminary hat again. I am now beginning the ‘work’ part of my journey in India as I meet with three institutions to discuss how Luther and each of the schools might work together for faculty and student exchange opportunities. I have re-entered the world of typing up minutes, working on the computer most of the day, and sitting in meetings, but it feels very different (and more fun) in this setting and situation.
The Henry Martyn Institute (HMI) is a very unique place. It is a Research and Study Center focused on Islamic studies and interfaith relations. They also have programs based in peace-building and conflict transformation and reconciliation. They partner with so many other sites in the city for the praxis part of their study program, which is a big part of the education process and a part of the place I want to learn more about. It is a very small school, with students from many different faith backgrounds. Many people live off-campus, but there seems to always be a nice community of people here for short-term research, workshops, or retreats. It is not a Christian school, although it is supported primarily by Christian organizations. Luther Seminary and HMI have exchanged students, mainly in the area of Islamic Studies, for several years, so I know one of the teaching staff here who was a Luther student previously, and I am working on a renewal of an on-going partnership agreement while I’m here.
I am basically very spoiled here. We are on the outskirts of the city and although there is a railway nearby and busy road that makes some noise, the place is very quiet and clean. I have a spacious, airy room with attached bath - and the food is fabulous. I have a place to start jogging again in the mornings and I have enjoyed yoga here a couple times as well. Besides the regular power cuts (I’m told it’s because the farmers need to pump water into their fields at this time of the year), I have good computer time to get my work done. And the people have been very warm and welcoming. The director, Dr. Andreas D’Souza, gave me a bigger hug than I’ve had in a long time when he met me the first day at devotions (see devotion space picture here). The small staff has made it easy to get to know people right away. Many of them are very independent and open-minded, not living a very typical Indian lifestyle, so my quirky Western ways seem to fit just fine. Besides Vijay (the man I already knew from Luther), I have already bonded with my work counterpart, Shobha. She juggles all sorts of administrative tasks while also coming up with creative programming and providing hospitality in a variety of ways. (See Vijay and Shobha here in the office picture). Shobha is even more talkative than I am, so we have already learned much about each other.
I attended a Sufi dargah (Sufi is a mystical branch of Islam and dargah means “doorway to heaven”) on Thursday night. Some Muslims go to the tombs of holy persons like this one to venerate them, pray, and receive healing or blessings. This particular dargah was at the former home and gravesite of two men who died in the 1600s. I attended the gathering with Dr. Andreas and a couple of German visitors at HMI. The three of us women sat on one side of the main gravesite behind a black curtain. On the other side and in the middle, the men sat and prayed, a group of people sang praises to Allah, Mohammad, or other ‘saints’ with drum and harmonium, and others entered the decorated tomb to place flowers there, kiss or bow, and pray. Sometimes they would bring offerings to the musicians. People will stay there all night and I am always amazed at the devotion of people who will even sit on the floor for hours praying while facing a wall, just because they know that on the other side of the wall are the remains of someone who was ‘close to God.’
OK, now I have to go back and tell you about my schedule for the upcoming month that has suddenly become so open. I decided right away that I should try to be in a place where I can get some work done on my final project for my MA, which means I need computer access. I also want to continue to learn about India, and I want to feel useful in some way. I decided to offer to volunteer at one of the various institutions at which I have some connection. HMI has already asked me to stay and do some editing here for them as well as get involved in some of their other programs, so this is the most likely scenario for me. I also might spend some time with an organization affiliated with UTC in Bangalore during and after their Jubilee celebration. So, I will let you know the final schedule soon, but this is my new plan so far!
-Sara
On Friday, Jan. 12, I spent my last day with the Ekkas. One important thing I had not yet done was to visit Maani and Urbas’s schools. They were both very proud to show off their rooms, teachers, and friends to me ,and it was fun for me to see the types of learning environments they both have (great places, but BIG class sizes!) I have been surprised to watch young kids (age 5 even) prepare for entrance interviews for private schools here in Ranchi. The kids are asked to say their parents’ names and a bunch of other details to test their knowledge of English and readiness for school. I knew that there is a lot of competition in Indian schools, but I never realized that in some cases, it all starts even BEFORE entry to a kindergarten class!
The kids were asleep when Nijhar and I left to catch the train that night, but there were many new friends to send us off, insisting that I keep up the ‘go and come’ theme in my travels. It wasn’t so difficult to consider a return visit to Ranchi, not only because I became so comfortable here, but also because my travel schedule was altered in a big way just at the end of my time in Ranchi. I had planned to go to New Zealand for about a month (February), but found out that flying there at this time would cost just as much or even more than from the U.S. I simply cannot afford to take such a trip right now, so I have found myself with a whole month open in my India schedule! What to do??? Well, there are lots of options, but I’m getting ahead of myself…
Nijhar and I left a very quiet evening in Ranchi only to arrive in a chaotic and loud morning in Kolkata! Her cousin found us in the biggest train station in India (I think) on the final platform (#21 - with two more platforms coming soon). He led us fearlessly and quickly without even looking back (thankfully he was wearing a bright red hat) through the corridors and masses of people and items for sale in the 4-5 big red brick buildings that make up Howrah station. It is really quite a place as it sits on the river facing the city with its big neon signs in 3 different languages flashing. Evidently, West Bengalis tend to be a bit louder or outspoken than other Indians and also they like to go out on the town more than others. I’m not sure if it is really true, but it certainly seemed to add to the craziness I felt in my first impressions of the city.
Since I was in Kolkata for less than 24 hours and only about 3 hours actually out and about in the city, I can only give a fe
w observations. I saw both very wide and very narrow streets, some covered in cobblestone. In addition to the usual bike and auto rickshaws, there were big yellow taxis, and this might be the only city in India which still has people-drawn rickshaws (but I didn’t happen to see them). It is a terribly difficult and unsafe life for the pullers, so most cities are banning them. We visited the Queen Victoria Memorial (see photo) and St. Paul’s Church, but most of Kolkata we saw by city bus or ferry. There were colorful and busy markets as well as big gardens and parks where people were enjoying themselves with games and relaxation. As if the city isn’t busy enough already, we happened to be there just as the Makar Sankranti Mela was getting ready to begin and there were many Hindu pilgrims arriving for this celebration.I didn’t realize until I arrived in Hyderabad 2 days later that the same Hindu celebration in Kolkata was being celebrated in a very different way here. It is called Pongal in the stat
e of Tamil Nadu, to the southeast of here, and it is one of the festivals I remember learning about at UTC. I also learned at UTC that the way Hindu festivals are recognized varies greatly from place to place (and even family to family). This holiday was a good example of this for me. While basically it is a harvest festival, marking the end of the winter season for many, it lasts 3-4 days and these are just a few of the ways it is recognized: flying kites, burning old mats or other things that are becoming old, cockfighting, washing and decorating cows and parading them in the streets, or causing a pot of milk to boil over. We had a conversation in my Hinduism class at UTC about whether the translation of ‘pongal’ was ‘boiling’, ‘It is boiling.’ or ‘Is it boiling?’, and I was told now that it’s proper translation is ‘overflowing.’ In any case, I will continue to say that my brain is ‘pongal’ whenever I get overwhelmed by such complicated cultural lessons!In Hyderabad, I settled into the Henry Martyn Institute and put on my Luther Seminary hat again. I am now beginning the ‘work’ part of my journey in India as I meet with three institutions to discuss how Luther and each of the schools might work together for faculty and student exchange opportunities. I have re-entered the world of typing up minutes, working on the computer most of the day, and sitting in meetings, but it feels very different (and more fun) in this setting and situation.
The Henry Martyn Institute (HMI) is a very unique place. It is a Research and Study Center focused on Islamic studies and interfaith relations. They also have programs based in peace-building and conflict transformation and reconciliation. They partner with so many other sites in the city for the praxis part of their study program, which is a big part of the education process and a part of the place I want to learn more about. It is a very small school, with students from many different faith backgrounds. Many people live off-campus, but there seems to always be a nice community of people here for short-term research, workshops, or retreats. It is not a Christian school, although it is supported primarily by Christian organizations. Luther Seminary and HMI have exchanged students, mainly in the area of Islamic Studies, for several years, so I know one of the teaching staff here who was a Luther student previously, and I am working on a renewal of an on-going partnership agreement while I’m here.
I am basically very spoiled here. We are on the outskirts of the city and although there is a railway nearby and busy road that makes some noise, the place is very quiet and clean. I have a spacious, airy room with attached bath - and the food is fabulous. I have a place to start jogging again in the mornings and I have enjoyed yoga here a couple times as well. Besides the regular power cuts (I’m told it’s because the farmers need to pump water into their fields at this time of the year), I have good computer time to get my work done. And the people have been very warm and welcoming. The director, Dr. Andreas D’Souza, gave me a bigger hug than I’ve had in a long time when he met me the first day at devotions (see devotion space picture here). The small staff has made it easy to get to know people right away. Many of them are very independent and open-minded, not living a very typical Indian lifestyle, so my quirky Western ways seem to fit just fine. Besides Vijay (the man I already knew from Luther), I have already bonded with my work counterpart, Shobha. She juggles all sorts of administrative tasks while also coming up with creative programming and providing hospitality in a variety of ways. (See Vijay and Shobha here in the office picture). Shobha is even more talkative than I am, so we have already learned much about each other.
I attended a Sufi dargah (Sufi is a mystical branch of Islam and dargah means “doorway to heaven”) on Thursday night. Some Muslims go to the tombs of holy persons like this one to venerate them, pray, and receive healing or blessings. This particular dargah was at the former home and gravesite of two men who died in the 1600s. I attended the gathering with Dr. Andreas and a couple of German visitors at HMI. The three of us women sat on one side of the main gravesite behind a black curtain. On the other side and in the middle, the men sat and prayed, a group of people sang praises to Allah, Mohammad, or other ‘saints’ with drum and harmonium, and others entered the decorated tomb to place flowers there, kiss or bow, and pray. Sometimes they would bring offerings to the musicians. People will stay there all night and I am always amazed at the devotion of people who will even sit on the floor for hours praying while facing a wall, just because they know that on the other side of the wall are the remains of someone who was ‘close to God.’OK, now I have to go back and tell you about my schedule for the upcoming month that has suddenly become so open. I decided right away that I should try to be in a place where I can get some work done on my final project for my MA, which means I need computer access. I also want to continue to learn about India, and I want to feel useful in some way. I decided to offer to volunteer at one of the various institutions at which I have some connection. HMI has already asked me to stay and do some editing here for them as well as get involved in some of their other programs, so this is the most likely scenario for me. I also might spend some time with an organization affiliated with UTC in Bangalore during and after their Jubilee celebration. So, I will let you know the final schedule soon, but this is my new plan so far!
-Sara
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